Once again, Dutch designer Iris van Herpen was unrivaled in her use of innovative technology. Her monochromatic dresses — designed on the computer, made from synthetic materials, and molded by hand — seemed like walking optical illusions.
“I am perpetually amazed by Iris’ continuous innovation and cross-exploration in fashion design, architecture and technology,” Yossy says.
Also bucking convention, Viktor & Rolf revamped damaged dresses with patches of mismatched luxury fabrics. The seams were trimmed with gold, recalling the Japanese art of kintsugi, where broken ceramics are reassembled with gold, silver or platinum along the cracks.
Chanel’s new bride
At Chanel, Lily-Rose Depp, the 17-year-old daughter of Johnny Depp and French actress Vanessa Paradis, had the honor of being the bride — that is, the last model to walk the runway in the show’s most extravagant look. She walked with Karl Lagerfeld in a diaphanous pink gown with a tiered skirt and oversized, ruffled sleeves as he acknowledged the audience.
Beautiful and bizarre
“Galliano managed to capture the essence of an artistic youth with his bold and expressive collection,” Yossy said, though it was his décortiqué hat that she was most drawn to.
Following her feminism-infused ready-to-wear debut in September, Dior designer Maria Chiuri Grazia elaborated on her vision for the brand with a collection of whimsical gowns (think full skirts, tulle and flowers) shown in an indoor labyrinth of leaves and moss.
But while Grazia stole the bulk of the spotlight with her fairytale designs, it was also a big moment for her former partner, Pierpaolo Piccioli, who showed his first couture collection as a solo designer at Valentino.
“Continuing with Valentino’s essence, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s reimagines a statuesque and understated perfection in his solo debut,” Yossy said.
At the other end of the spectrum, Vetements designer Demna Gvasalia showed an unconventional collection of disparate looks that wouldn’t look out of place walking along your local high street.
Light-wash dad jeans, studded leather jackets and hoodies were shown alongside a knee-length fur coat, silk dresses and, in a tongue-in-cheek reference to couture tradition, a billowing wedding gown.
The show was polarizing, but the brand has once again forced the fashion community — as well as shoppers — to reevaluate the meaning of luxury and value.